My Printer never works (DaVinci Pro 1.0)

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My Printer never works (DaVinci Pro 1.0)

Postby MendoNintendo » Thu Jun 21, 2018 1:07 pm

Dear XYZ Printing Community,

I've had the honor of having a $700 paper weight, in the corner of my room, collecting dust for about 2 years now. At first when I had the unit it worked perfectly. Did some tweaking and then it worked amazingly, but then it slowly went down hill. At first it was one or 2 failed prints, then that turned to all my prints never coming out right. It never sticks to the print bed (and yes I've tried everything that I could do to have better adhesion). It comes off or the corner of the print lifts and messes the whole print. The head always gets jammed and the print bed is never leveled.
I've contacted support countless times and I never get a straight answer and get always back saying that I have to call them. Fine, but then that leads to "I need to Skype you." (Jesus!) Fine, I make an account, show him all the problems and then he tells me "I don't know the answer to the problem and I cant help you." Like the hell??? I spent 2 days waiting for an answer to have then make a Skype account and then be told "Sorry IDK"???? (I wish I recorded the call) Its just amazing that I wasted $700 on a product that never works and also to have support that has no clue what do to. Amazing.
Currently I have no clue what to do or how to fix this and have come to the conclusion that XYZ doesn't care about the customers and just wants to see you struggle. Its a shame that I have to come to this negativity about the company but I'm just about to throw out my printer.
If anyone could help that would be great

Thanks,
Mendo
MendoNintendo
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Re: My Printer never works (DaVinci Pro 1.0)

Postby DrC » Sat Jul 07, 2018 11:30 am

Where to start?

I'm struggling a bit too but getting successful prints.

First, preparing the bed. I use the paper provided to protect the bed, but to get the model to stick I use a 600ml squeezy bottle of cheap water soluble PVA glue from Tesco (other suppliers are available). I spread a helping quite liberally over the whole bed. It dries as the bed heats up and the print sticks well. Between prints I refresh it with a wet microfibre cloth which is now well glue soaked and also acts to spread the glue with each application. When there is plenty of glue, wiping it with the well wetted cloth respreads the glue which I add to when it feels a bit thin.

The only problem I still have is getting the finished model off the bed. Carefully wetting the join and enticing water into the crack is slow but it works. Limited violence also works but damages the paper layer which can be sort of repaired when dry by scraping it flat again and filling any pot holes with PVA.

Second, levelling the bed. Ignore all the instructions and the help, but you need a feeler gauge or some other material of known thickness. I am serious about making precision parts so I have invested in a micrometer and measured the thickness of the binding tape around the shipping box of my printer to be 1.0mm. No guarantee yours will be the same but you could put 10 layers into a small vice and measure the gap between the jaws when you clamp it! I use a small strip of this to set my z-axis.

Look at how the levelling screws work. Tightening the plastic nuts compresses the support springs and lowers the bed. Tighten them enough to visibly lower the bed then set the z-offset to 1mm or whatever feeler gauge you are using. The extruder comes out so that you can manually move it over the bed. You should have enough clearance to do this - if not tighten the nuts more!

With the nozzle directly over each adjustment nut loosen the nut so the spring lifts the bed so the feele gauge is comfortable in the gap. Check them all after they have all been set - the bed is levelled and the z-offset equals the feeler gauge setting.

Now set the z-offset to the service level. I am using 0.28 mm. This gives good adhesion helping to prevent warping but overfills the bottom layer causing it to splay slightly. I fine tune the actual gap by adding PVA when models start to warp, and wiping with just water when they are too difficult to get off. With this method, if your model is bigger than a few cm you will almost certainly have at least one of these two problems, so if any one out there is doing better I'd love to hear from them.
DrC
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