Get Prints to Stick and Supports

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Get Prints to Stick and Supports

Postby Tony » Sun Mar 25, 2018 4:43 am

Getting your prints to stick:
CLEAN Build PLATE AFTER EVERY PRINT!!!
Lightly sand build plate before each print and clean with alcohol.
One use 3M P220 Sanding sheets (thin spongy stuff not paper).
I stress lightly sand, you don't need to sand too much.
Make sure you have calibrated the build plate.
I have used the sanding trick and have not had to re-calibrate and have had 10 successful prints.
Make sure your resin tank is not foggy and that you don't have a failed print stuck to in the tank.
For my prints I have found that I always need a brim.

Get a little Heater:
I have found that if I heat up the printer using a small floor heater like the one you would use to heat your feet in an office, the prints stick WAY better.
I start heating 10-15 min before I start the print, I keep the heater about 12" away from machine and keep heater on low through the print.
If you read about the form lab printer you will know they have a built in heater.
Resin performs better above 90 deg.
NEVER PRINT UNATTENDED!
I would always recommend having a smoke detector by your printer.

Supports:
XYZ software is not the best for supports, so draw in some supports in the program that you created your print.
You can download B9 Creator (that is a different SLA printer) and customize the build platform and that will allow you to place your own supports and save as a STL file.

Once you have things dialed in the Nobel 1.0A will put out some great prints.
Start off with something small, a print that will only take 30 min to 60 min.
Once you get that going good move on from there.

Do not expect this to be just plug and play this is a completely different type of printing than FDM.
Tony
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Re: Get Prints to Stick and Supports

Postby jason jason » Thu Mar 29, 2018 5:51 pm

Great that you've got a method that is working for you! What temperature is your house normally at? I wonder if that plays a factor.
What are the pros and cons of sla printing? Material wise, how does it compare to fdm in cost per product?
You mentioned a potential for fire? What exactly would be causing this fire?

Thanks!
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Re: Get Prints to Stick and Supports

Postby Tony » Sat Mar 31, 2018 5:28 am

In the Winter my basement is 65 deg f.
Pros of SLA:
Can print small detail very accurate parts.
No warping of parts due to cooling.
Can Print Hollow Parts.
Cons:
Limited size.
Speed, high detail long print times.
COSTS!!! Resin is expensive, resin tanks are expensive, clean up is expensive, and learning curve is expensive.
There is post processing that will need to be done.

If you have the heater too close to the printer it could always "potentially" cause a fire. Unlikely but there is always a risk.
Tony
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Re: Get Prints to Stick and Supports

Postby jason jason » Sat Mar 31, 2018 7:13 am

Thanks.
Can you give me an idea of what a long print time would be? A common item printed for tests it a small ship found on thingiverse. I'm not suggesting printing it, but maybe you could run it through the slicer. :)
I'm glad the risk of fire isn't with the printer itself. That would be terrible! Lol
I'll have to look up the details of the print sizes, and the costs of the additional curing chamber I'm assuming your referring to by post processing.
I had seen a 3d pen that used a gel and a uv light. Do you think it would be useful as a repair tool for prints that need post processing due to support removal and other things? They make a high tech one that can put out metered amounts of resin by using a small servo to control the flow. Then powerful uv lights to cure it. It looked pretty cool but I'm sure it comes at a pro price. The 3d pen was on sale for twelve dollars.
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Re: Get Prints to Stick and Supports

Postby higginsdj » Mon Apr 02, 2018 4:37 pm

Keeping the build and tank surfaces 'clean'. I do the following:

1. Use a plastic scraper - not the metal one. Metal one is only used where a print just won't come off
2. If you use the metal scraper, I use extra fine steel wool/mesh to polish the scratches left by the metal scraper off then thoroughly clean the surface with Iso.
3. Make sure you 'scrape' the resin tank after every build. You might be surprised by what is left 'glued' to the tank surface after a print (particularly failed prints). The left overs are sticky enough to pull your prints off support or cause major layer separations (and noisy tank tilt cycles)
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Re: Get Prints to Stick and Supports

Postby higginsdj » Mon Apr 02, 2018 5:33 pm

My printing location is my study. Ambient temp around 23 Celsius, low humidity. Print times so far have ranged from 1hr 45min to 12 hrs (82mm tall miniature at 0.05mm slice)
Yes I hate the XYZPrinting Supports - dense and cross linked making them very difficult to remove from delicate parts (failed prints have been the result of support removal breaking the model). I also do not like the quite deep pock marks left by the supports. Will try b9Creator instead.
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